Monday, April 16, 2012

Rigid Heddle Summer Winter Weave!

Well, here's the great Summer Winter experiment!  As you can see, on my Flip Rigid Heddle Loom, it involves 2 heddles, and 2 pick up sticks, and 2 shuttles (and 2 different yarns).

Summer Winter consists of a background of plain weave under/between shots of a pattern (usually a thicker yarn - in this case just a doubled strand of yarn).  

The fabric pattern will have the opposite colors on the other side - thus there is a "summer" side and a "winter" side.  My sample is woven looking at the winter (mostly darker) side. 
Part 1:  Warping up the loom
The first thing you need to know, is that your plain weave ground will be created by both heddles up/both heddles down, so your reeds need to be half the dents that you would normally use for your background yarn (think of it being that the two reeds together need to add up to your desired dent size).  
This is Cascade 220, normally requiring an 8 dent reed, so I've threaded it into 2 - 5 dent reeds (there being no 4 dent size).
The threading is just the usual double heddle method (found in the little booklet that comes with your Flip, or any good Rigid Heddle book, or try http://www.ashfordclub.co.nz/pages/second_heddle.pdf - this one really has the best illustrations and the clearest explanations that I've found so far online)

Part 2:  The Pick Up
You will need more than one pick up.  The A pick up stick can just get pushed to the back of the loom when you're not using it.  The B pick up will need to be re-picked each time you need it, and removed when you're done with that section.
On a symmetrical pattern, the B pick up is the opposite of the A. (There are tons of pattern possibilities, just remember that each new/different shape is a new/different pick-up)
My main pick up patterns were:
A - 3 up/3 down/4 up/3 down/14 up /3 down/4 up/3 down/3 up
B - 3 down/3 up/4 down/3 up/14 down/3 up/4 down/3 up/3 down


I found it easiest to create my pick up in front of the loom, and then transfer it to the back.
Pick up is done with both shuttles down.
Using a stick shuttle (or you can use a piece of cardboard, a ruler, etc.) to isolate the slot threads , use the pick up stick to pick up your pattern.


Insert that stick shuttle into the pick up in front of the heddles to create a shed, and move the pick up stick into that shed behind the heddles (seems like a bit much, but it's sooooo much easier to do the pick-up at the front of the loom that it's worth the trouble)


Part 3:  The Weave Sequence (for "Bricks" variation)
I got the weave sequence from watching a brief post-lecture demo given by Betty Davenport at the Seattle Weavers Guild.  I may not have gotten it quite right, but it seems to work, so here it is:
 
Row 1: Background/Plain Weave
Both heddles up
Throw a shot with your background yarn.





Row 2: Pattern Row
(view from the back of the loom)
The front heddle is up, the rear heddle in neutral, and the pick up stick is up on edge against the rear heddle.
Throw a shot with your pattern yarn.





Row 3: Background/Plain Weave
Both heddles down
Throw a shot with your background yarn.



Row 4: Pattern Row
(view from the side)
The rear heddle is up, the front heddle is down halfway, and the pick-up stick is flat
Throw a shot with your pattern yarn.



Repeat these 4 rows until your pattern is as long as you want it to be.
Slide the A stick to the back of the loom.
Insert stick B and do it all again with the B part of your pattern!
Remove stick B, and keep on going back and forth between A and B as much as you like.

 




Winter
left - bricks
center - columns
right - pairs










Summer
left - bricks
center - columns
right - pairs






Weave Sequence - Pairs Variation:

Row 1: Background/Plain Weave
Both heddles up
Throw a shot with your background yarn.

Row 2: Pattern Row
The front heddle is up, the rear heddle in neutral, and the pick up stick is up on edge against the rear heddle.
Throw a shot with your pattern yarn.

Row 3: Background/Plain Weave
Both heddles down
Throw a shot with your background yarn.
 
Row 4: Pattern Row
The front heddle is up, the rear heddle in neutral, and the pick up stick is up on edge against the rear heddle.
Throw a shot with your pattern yarn.
(whoa - this is the same as row 2!  So you may have to slip around that selvedge thread)

Row 5: Background/Plain Weave
Both heddles up
Throw a shot with your background yarn.

Row 6: Pattern Row
The rear heddle is up, the front heddle is down halfway, and the pick-up stick is flat
Throw a shot with your pattern yarn.

Row 7: Background/Plain Weave
Both heddles down
Throw a shot with your background yarn.

Row 8: Pattern Row
The rear heddle is up, the front heddle is down halfway, and the pick-up stick is flat
Throw a shot with your pattern yarn.(whoa - this is the same as row 6!  So you may have to slip around that selvedge thread) 

And as before, repeat to the size of your pattern.
Then do it all with the B pick up.  And back to A, and back to B . . .

Weave Sequence - Columns Variation:

Row 1: Background/Plain Weave
Both heddles up
Throw a shot with your background yarn.
 
Row 2: Pattern Row 
The front heddle is up, the rear heddle in neutral, and the pick up stick is up on edge against the rear heddle.
Throw a shot with your pattern yarn.

Row 3: Background/Plain Weave
Both heddles down
Throw a shot with your background yarn.

Row 4: Pattern Row 
The front heddle is up, the rear heddle in neutral, and the pick up stick is up on edge against the rear heddle.
Throw a shot with your pattern yarn.
(whoa - this is the same as row 2!  So you may have to slip around that selvedge thread)

And as before, repeat to the size of your pattern.
Then do it all with the B pick up.  And back to A, and back to B . . .

Yes, with columns you only use one of the pick up with heddle positions!  And it does look slightly different, depending on whether you use the front heddle up (like I did) or the rear heddle up for your columns (it affects how the A and B columns meet at the corners) 

A simple checkerboard pattern (pattern colors are reversed on the other side, but still, it looks the same on the other side!)
left - columns
center - bricks
right - pairs




And here's an attempt to get a narrower stripe - the 1 up/1 down pick up section only really works with the columns variation (I know, I should have at least kept pictures of the failed bricks and pairs, but I didn't).




So there you have it!  
It was hard to get into a weaving rhythm when I kept changing the pattern and/or the variation, but when I settled into one and just wove, it did start to flow nicely.  
And though it may seem a bit fiddly, it was lots of fun.  
And the fabric is thick and lush and yummy with this size yarn (and I'm sure it would be lovely and delicate with some tiny yarn - but think of all those threads to pick up!)  
So give it a try and have some fun!

Thursday, March 29, 2012

Free-Motion Quilting Challenge for March

SewCalGal's Free Motion Quilting Challenge is turning out to be lots of fun (as well as challenging!).  This month's free-flowing, whirling, swirling fill patterns from Anne Fahl gave a nice balance to last month's improvisational but precise and technical feathers.  
Clockwise from upper left - loopy loops, loops and stars (it's funny how easy it is to forget which way your line needs to go on a star!), sproingy spirals, and loopy flowers.  It's a treat to loosen up and to be a little whimsical and care-free.

Well, not entirely care-free!  I've been wanting to try those multi-colored threads, and this seemed like a good time for it, so I got some Sulky Blendables 30 weight cotton (this is #4117 Fall Holidays) and a 90/14 Topstitch needle, and this is what happened on the back (weirdo pulled stitches on the lower left):
It actually looks kind of cool and makes me wonder if one could use this as an artistic effect somewhere, but really, it is a tension issue, and needed to go away.  I was also having trouble with the thread breaking - frequently.  Adjusting the tension did almost no good at all, so I went back to Leah Day's Question Thursdays  and trolled for questions about thread and tension issues and this is what I found (and tried).


#1.  Re-thread your machine - this actually helped a little, so I did it every time things went worse instead of better.
#2. Check your needle/try a new needle (sometimes they are defective) - voila, thread stops breaking so much (only happened once on my final sample block - still want to get that down to never breaking - more investigation needed).
#3.  Go back to what has worked before, look at what you've changed, and check the changes one-by-one - obviously the thread changed, but that needs to stay changed, and also the needle, but I also changed the tension and the stitch length -so I went back to "auto" tension and normal 2.5 stitch length, and things got even better.
#4. Use the same thread in the bobbin - well, I was still using my regular sewing thread in the bobbin (trying to use up random bobbin colors, I confess), so that got changed, and la - it's all good now (you can see things get a little better in the middle with the tension and stitch length change, and all good at lower right with the thread change)!

I still get some thread dots on top and bottom occasionally, but I think that may be due to getting so in the swing of the curves, that I put a little swoop in my sewing instead of keeping the speed of my hands in harmony with the speed of the machine (can't have too much fun, I guess - or maybe I just need to swoop with both hands and foot pedal equally . . . ).

In other FMQ news, although I am hopelessly behind, I am still following Leah Day's Quilt Along Wednesday  projects, and finally finished lesson #3 - playing with scale - and combined it with a little warm-up for the current lesson (# 12!) on micro-stippling
Started with something around 1/2 inch, and went in stages down to something close to 1/16th inch!  The 1/16th inch stippling gets a little wonky, but the others are coming more easily, mostly.
Used the Sulky again (in color #4113 Country Decor) with what I learned on the March challenge, and had no tension problems and no thread breaking!  Yay!


Sunday, March 4, 2012

More Rigid Heddle Weaving Classes

Just a quick note about the next series of classes I'm teaching on Vashon (we had so much fun in the last classes and my students made such lovely scarves):

Beginning Rigid Heddle Weaving
Three Scarves
The Rigid Heddle Loom is a simple but versatile (and very portable) little loom.  In four sessions, students will weave three scarves - learning how to warp the loom, how to weave plain weave, how to select yarns for weaving, how to use stripes and plaids and checks, how to include yarns of various thicknesses in “stashbusting”, how to finish the ends of a scarf with various fringes, how to wash and care for handwovens, and how to plan future projects.  
$80 for 4 sessions@ 3 hours each
Saturdays – March 10, 17, and 31, and April 7 from 1PM to 4PM 
at Island Quilter 17639 Vashon Hwy SW, Vashon, WA
To sign up, call Island Quilter at 206-713-6000


Intermediate Rigid Heddle I
Pick-Up Lace
In three sessions, students will learn pick-up stick and hand manipulation techniques to weave a lace sampler scarf or wall hanging.  Sampler includes Leno Lace, Mexican Lace, Norwegian Lace, Karelian Lace, Peruvian Gauze, Spot Lace, Tarascan Lace, Brooks Bouquet, Honeycomb, Danish Medallion, and Spanish Lace, as well as weft floats and lattice hemstitching. 
Pre-requisite: Students must know how to warp a loom and weave with plain weave.
$60 for 3 sessions@ 2 ½  hours each
Saturdays – March 17, and 31, and April 7 from 10 AM to 12:30 PM
at Island Quilter 17639 Vashon Hwy SW, Vashon, WA
To sign up, call Island Quilter at 206-713-6000